May 25, 2008

I recently received an email from a good friend. The email reads, “Dan, blog updates throughout the first six months of your experience arrived regularly. I haven’t heard from you in four months! In speculation I’ve developed a list of reasons to explain your lack of correspondence. First, you’ve abandoned your post in search of buried treasure left by Spanish conquerors. Second, you’ve taken an extended vacation to improve your surfing skills on the Caribbean (Hurricane waves have got to be amazing, right?) Third, boredom with Honduran politics pushed you to South America. You’re in Venezuela trying to escape Hugo Chavez’s hired thugs – run Dan, run!! Fourth, you’ve illegally crossed the border into the United States just to try it. After arriving, you got hooked on the coffee in a Dupont Circle café. The nonstop election results are keeping you glued to the television (When did CNN purchase those new touch-screen gadgets anyway?). Fifth, you no longer speak English. Sixth, you’ve forgotten that your updates provide a temporary release from a routine workday in the United States… Dan, I’m surrounded by people complaining about their Excel spreadsheets. Write so that I have a decent reason to ignore them!”

After reading my friend’s email I realized an explanation is necessary. How could I abandon my loyal bloggers for such a long period of time? The truth is less interesting than my buddy’s imagination. I’ve yet to unearth Spanish gold (still looking); it’s impossible to surf on the Honduran coast (so I’ve heard); local politics is ripe with corruption and scandal; the coffee sold in Dupont Circle cafes grows in nearby mountains; and I’ve yet to abandon the English language. So, what has prevented me from writing over the last few months? First, my comfort level with the Spanish language has increased significantly since arriving to Honduras. Being able to speak Spanish more comfortably has allowed me to build professional relationships with community members. These relationships have led to an increase in available work. Second, I’m less dependent upon using email now than I was six months ago. Unlike a usual workday in the United States, there’s no need to constantly monitor my Inbox while working in Honduras. Most organizations in Gracias don’t use the Internet. Not even the Department of Education for the State of Lempira has embraced the technology. Also, it’s not uncommon for the electricity to be out from early morning to late afternoon, thus adding another barrier to Internet usage… All excuses aside, please accept my apology. I’ll do better job of communicating throughout the next few months.

Recent Projects

In February I approached local public schools with a new project. After presenting myself to teachers I proposed that, over time, I introduce new teaching techniques for them to use within their classrooms. A few teachers expressed interest in the project. As a result, I currently work on a rotating schedule with different teachers to help improve the quality of teaching within public schools. One enjoyable aspect about working in different classrooms is the number of people I’ve met within the community. Compared to many Peace Corps sites, Gracias is a big town (about 15,000 people). Volunteers can experience difficulty integrating into the community as a result of size and population. Fortunately, working within public schools helps eliminate some of the barriers surrounding community integration.

In addition to the many public schools in Gracias, there are two private bilingual schools that sit on the opposite ends of town. The teachers are recruited from the United States and England to teach ESL classes for an entire school year. Faculty from one school, the Villa Verde Bilingual School and Ecological Center, has requested help in organizing language proficiency standards for each grade level. A new set of teachers is scheduled to arrive in August. From now until then I’ll gather materials to help establish language standards for the school. Then, after meeting with new teachers, I’ll most likely assist the faculty in assessing whether or not the language standards are being met. I anticipate this project to move slowly (and last throughout the duration of my Peace Corps service)… Follow the provided link if you’d like to visit the school’s website. http://www.villaverdeschool.com/

Noise: Viewed Differently in Honduras

A celebration is taking place in the central park of Gracias today. The streets are lined with pine needles and decorative displays. Fireworks continuously shoot into the air. After each explosion the echo bounces back and forth until each rooster crows. Screaming roosters awaken the sleeping dogs until barking drowns out the sound of typing on my keyboard. It’s now impossible to continue writing. I can barely hear my own thoughts over the neighbor’s telenovela; the ranchera music is blaring from outside my window; fireworks are exploding; dogs are barking; the neighborhood boy is firing a toy machine gun; and the roosters continue to crow...

All the best,
Dan

December 29, 2007

Nearly half a year has passed since my arrival to Honduras. In six months I’ve lived with three Honduran families located in three different regions of the country. Although living within Honduran homes for such a long period of time certainly has drawbacks, I’ve been fortunate to live amidst kind, generous, and patient Hondurans. Aside from building personal relationships with family members, living in various households has led to a deeper understanding of the Honduran perspective. Aspects of Central American life that once seemed foreign are beginning to make sense… Finally, after six months of embracing the family lifestyle, I’ve relocated to what I hope will be my permanent Peace Corps residence.

I now live alone in a one-bedroom house located near the central park of Gracias. By Peace Corps standards I’m extremely lucky. At times, Volunteers experience difficulty locating available housing options. A lack of housing routinely forces Volunteers to live with a host family for the entire two-year commitment. I’m fortunate to have stumbled upon my current home. The house is equipped with electricity, running water, and the occasional lukewarm shower (luxury items for a Peace Corps Volunteer). In addition to periodic warm water, the house includes a small backyard, garden area, and an outside wood-burning stove. I plan on taking full advantage of the backyard by gardening, building a fire pit, and cleaning the area surrounding the stove. Potential exists for a series of exciting backyard boogies. If you’re looking for an excuse to sit by a fire and watch the stars, come on down!

The initial move-in date was scheduled for December 15, 2007. Unfortunately, due to years of neglect, the house required a week of nonstop cleaning. Upon entering the home I noticed a thick layer of spider webs covering nearly every inch of the ceilings. The walls in the kitchen and bedroom were covered with dirt and had turned light brown. The living room was dark, musty, and painted purple. In addition, the previous owner allowed neighborhood cats to sleep in the living room. To make matters more interesting, one of the cats recently birthed a litter of kittens. As you can imagine, the gang of neighborhood cats seemed confused as I beat them out of my living room with a dirty mop. They’ve attempted to return on numerous occasions only to find an angry foreigner, half stoned and completely crazy from hours of painting, awaiting their arrival... Surveying the condition of the house led me to postpone the move-in date until after a thorough cleaning (December 19, 2007). For at least a week I stomped on spiders, painted walls, and chased cats. The result is a livable residence with red floors and white walls. The majority of the house remains unfurnished. Yet, over time I hope to create a comfortable living space that allows me to periodically escape the madness of Honduras.

With Christmas and New Years approaching I enter yet another adjustment phase of Peace Corps life. The opportunities to work in a peaceful setting, set a schedule according to my interests, and enjoy a bit of privacy have finally returned. If nothing else, the Peace Corps experience tests a person’s ability to withstand difficult periods of adaptation. Momentary periods of hardship arise almost daily throughout each adjustment phase. However, I have no doubt, that, after settling-in to my new environment, my ability to be an effective Volunteer will greatly increase.

I sincerely hope that all of you are doing well. My experiences would be much harder without the constant support of my friends and family. Perhaps one day I’ll be able to thank you in person. Enjoy the holidays!

All the Best,
Dan

There’s no need to worry about the neighborhood cats. They now live happily with the family next door.

November 18, 2007

Hello Everyone!

The adventures continue in Honduras. Aside from learning how to milk cows, planting trees at the farm, picking coffee, dodging hurricanes, and speeding through mountain hills in the back of pick-up trucks, I do have “official” tasks assigned by Peace Corps counterparts. I’ve received emails requesting more information about the type of work I do with the Peace Corps. So, here’s a little update about my development work in Gracias, Lempira. I’m currently working on six projects. However, in an attempt not to bore my bloggers, I’ve briefly commented on two of my most recent endeavors below. I’ll include more information about my official work with the Peace Corps in future updates.

The Department of Education

Each day of the workweek I collaborate with the Secretary of Education to support ongoing projects throughout the State of Lempira. My primary role is to help gather data from teachers, parents, and students to determine whether or not the Department of Education is making progress towards their established goals. Here is a brief list of our specific objectives (translated from Spanish):

• Determine the effectiveness of the annual planning process within each center of education
• Study the implication of the directive team in planning tasks and organizing curriculum
• Better understand the cohesion of class programs, objectives, content, and assessments
• Determine the capacity of the employed methodology within each center of education
• Know the relationship between the management of education centers and student attainment

As you can imagine, my first day working with the Department of Education was somewhat challenging. I had studied Spanish for nearly three months before beginning my official work in Gracias. Yet, immediately after being introduced to the Secretary of Education I was handed a one hundred-page document written in high-level academic Spanish. He requested that I become familiar with the document, prepare clarifying questions if necessary, and plan to discuss the project the following week. One month has passed since receiving the document. I’ve studied the reports thoroughly and look forward to implementing the various interviews in February (public schools are closed until the beginning of February to celebrate Christmas and New Year). I anticipate the beginning months of 2008 to be relatively slow compared to the rest of the year. Hopefully I’m able to utilize free time to study Spanish, collaborate with other Volunteers, and develop alternative side projects.

Trash Campaign

Throughout Honduras there are six general categories of development projects: Water Sanitation, Municipal Development, Business Development, Protected Areas Management, Youth Development, and Health. I’m fortunate to be located in a site containing Peace Corps Volunteers from four of the six projects. As a result, I’m able to network with Volunteers, learn about different approaches to development, and collaborate on projects outside of my focus area. Lately I’ve been working with a Business Development Volunteer, in conjunction with a Spanish NGO, to create and implement a citywide trash collection campaign. Numerous problems exist surrounding the issue of garbage in Gracias. Trash is scattered on every street in the city. It’s common to see plastic bags and aluminum cans nonchalantly tossed out of moving busses. The results are disastrous for many reasons. We are hoping that our project will be a catalyst for change in the city. In short, the project targets local businesses, individual barrios (neighborhoods), and schools within Gracias. My role is to work within schools in order to promote the trash campaign, organize youth groups to lead the cleanup effort, and provide basic education surrounding the various problems with garbage in Gracias.

The Good Stuff

Aside from work, an extraordinary amount of interesting observations, issues, and project ideas have emerged during my first four months in Honduras. I’m much more enthusiastic about documenting these types of projects, adventures, and thoughts. I’ll do my best to keep you updated! In the meantime, I hope all is well.

All the Best,
Dan

October 15, 2007

Regaining Independence

On September 28, 2007 I left the town of Santa Lucia and began the long journey to my permanent worksite: Gracias, Lempira. The trip lasts a total of eight hours and spans nearly half of Honduras. The latter half of the journey is the most interesting portion; there are few paved roads and busses do not leave regularly from my third connection stop: San Juan. Therefore, after twisting and turning through steep mountains for nearly four hours, I am left on the dusty streets of San Juan without direct connection to Gracias. On this particular occasion I was fortunate to meet a Swedish couple on the bus from La Esperanza. They were heading to Gracias to explore Mt. Celaque – the largest mountain in Honduras. After being left in the town of San Juan we devised a plan to enter Gracias together. We decided to wait at the dusty intersection, flag down the next passing vehicle, and request a ride (jalon) into town. To our delight, after fifteen minutes of waiting, an old pick-up truck stopped to offer a ride. We loaded our luggage into the back of the truck, hopped in, and enjoyed a bumpy ride into the town of Gracias.

After three months of training I had nearly forgotten about my preference for traveling alone. My mind was unable to focus on anything other than Spanish, the occasional charla (lecture), and routine daily tasks required by the training team. After training I’ve finally been able to relocate - and enjoy - several important interests: traveling, meeting new people, and remaining open to spontaneous daily events. The adventurous entrance into Gracias revived my desire to live abroad, experience new places, build relationships, and remain open to the spontaneity that life often offers. For example, I had no idea that I would soon become the newest member of Gracias’ championship club soccer team.

Apparently I Play Soccer

I woke up early on Sunday, November 30, 2007 with the intention of studying Spanish. Each morning I read the local newspaper (La Prensa), highlight new vocabulary, and create flashcards to help memorize unfamiliar words. Throughout the afternoon I do my best to incorporate new vocabulary into conversation. On this particular morning I had planned on studying before exploring the town of Gracias. As I slowly made my way through the newspaper my host brother interrupted to ask whether or not I would be interested in playing soccer with his friends. Assuming the game would be nothing more than a pick-up soccer game, I agreed and entered my room to change clothes. We left the house together and jumped into the back of a Dodge pick-up truck. While speeding towards the base of Mt. Celaque I remember thinking that it would’ve been wise to eat breakfast before playing soccer. I was hungry and didn’t know when I would have an opportunity to eat. In addition, I wondered if I should’ve tucked away a few Lempiras (dollars) to buy a small snack before the game. I had assumed the game would be informal and short. I told myself not to worry; I should utilize this opportunity to practice speaking Spanish and meet local Hondurans.

The drive to the soccer field was beautiful, dangerous, and educational at the same time. I had never known it was possible to fit fifteen people into the back of a pick-up truck. Every five minutes the truck would pull to the side of the dirt road, gladly welcome additional passengers into the paila (bed of the truck), and continue onward at a mind-boggling speed. Each additional passenger seemed equally curious as to why the tall gringo sat white-knuckled and scared as we climbed the Honduran hills. I did my best to explain in broken Spanish that I wasn’t used to riding in the back of a truck (or, that I wasn’t used to gripping the side of a truck in order to prevent being thrown to my death – my Spanish isn’t quite there yet). By the time we arrived to the field I was hungry and fatigued. Yet, I had a great opportunity to meet other locals, prove my athleticism on the soccer field, gain respect among locals, and integrate into the community. I did my best to appear confident and ready for the assumed informal pick-up game.

When the opposing team arrived I noticed each player was wearing a bright orange soccer jersey. I remember being slightly puzzled; surely I wouldn’t be invited to play in an official soccer game. I inquired about the jerseys and learned that my team also had official uniforms. My host brother promptly handed me shorts and a white top. “Vamos,” he said, and then dashed towards the center of the field. Not knowing what else to do, I changed clothes and did my best to appear ready for the upcoming game. The official referee arrived as I stretched the tight white jersey over my torso. I began to worry.

At this point I tried to convince myself that I was fully capable of playing a full soccer game: “Okay Dan, you’re not that hungry. Who needs breakfast anyway? Soccer games aren’t that long. You’re athletic – you can do it. Just go for it!” As I talked myself into a completely impossible situation I noticed that the team I had just joined began to warm up – officially, in unison, just like every baseball team I had ever played on. I joined the group, participated in the warm-up exercises, and stretched to prepare for the game. After stretching the team captain informed me that I would be playing offense on the right side of the field. Apparently he believed that my height would benefit the team. His idea was to cross the ball into the center of the field where I would be waiting to head the ball into the net. Little did he know I had absolutely no intention of attempting headers, placing myself in the center of the action, or risk going down with another athletic injury (three surgeries is enough for a lifetime). However, I nodded my head in agreement and jogged to my position.

The game started. I dashed from side to side doing my best to pretend like a soccer player. At the beginning of the game my team members willingly passed me the ball. I used my speed to create openings towards the net, where I would then receive a quick pass from one of the wings. At first, I felt comfortable charging the goal and making attempts at scoring. This mindset quickly changed after being fully attacked by the opposing team. After taking a quick beating and losing control of the ball, I decided it would be a better idea to be less aggressive. For the remainder of the first half I passed the ball away from the net immediately after receiving a pass… I was replaced after the first half of the soccer game. Apparently my teammates didn’t like my less aggressive approach.

I enjoyed the second half of the game much more than the first. Campesinos from nearby Aldeas (small villages) had gathered around the sidelines to watch the game. They brought with them freshly picked oranges, pineapple, tortillas, and juice to sell during halftime. I hobbled to the sidelines, peeled a ripe Honduran orange, and practiced Spanish with locals while watching the remainder of the game. In fact, this experience proved to be far more rewarding than the actual soccer game itself. We discussed the differences between Honduras and the United States. They asked questions about my experiences in Honduras. And, of coarse, they politely asked me to teach them phrases in English. When the game ended I climbed back into the paila of the Dodge pick-up, waved goodbye to our fans, and braced myself for the bumpy ride back to Gracias.

On the way back to Gracias I learned that my team won 4 – 0. I didn’t make many contributions within the game itself. However, I’ve been invited to play in an upcoming game this Sunday (October 14, 2007). I’m going to wake up earlier and make sure to eat breakfast. I have a feeling I’ll make a better teammate with a full stomach.

September 16, 2007

September 12th, 2007 marked the beginning of my third month in Central America. Individual days continue to pass slowly beneath the Honduran heat. At moments I wonder how time is capable of moving at such a pace. Yet, the beginning months of my experience are coming to a close. Overall, I am surprised at how quickly two months have passed. I remember with clarity the drive away from San Francisco. The city slowly disappeared in my rearview mirror. My last night in New Mexico was spent watching the Albuquerque sky turn fire red above the beautiful dessert. In Washington, D.C. I ran to the Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial, and stretched aside the Whitehouse gate. Then, before boarding my flight out of the country, I embraced one last cup of morning coffee while sitting inside a Dupont Circle café. These memories, along with so many others, remain clear as crystal. I can’t believe I’ve been away from the United States for over two months.

The training phase of Peace Corps is nearly finished. On Tuesday, September 18th, 2007 volunteers relocate to Santa Lucia once again before departing to individual worksites. I am still uncertain as to where my permanent site will be. Peace Corps withholds this information until the very end of training. Last week, however, each trainee received information regarding the organizations he/she will be working with at their site. I have three primary organizations:

1.Department District Direction – Each Department, or State, within Honduras has a Department District Direction (DDD). The District Direction acts as the central office of education within their specific Department (Honduras has 18 official Departments). The DDD oversees teacher development, training, curriculum design, academic progress, student achievement, as well as budgetary issues within each Municipality. My first task is to conduct a needs assessment of the Department in order to determine what areas are in dire need of reform (with a focus on teacher training). After identifying the different areas of need within the Department my next task is to prioritize the issues that need immediate attention. Lastly, a plan of action will need to be created in order to address the areas of need.

2.Educatodos – Many Honduran children work during the day in order to supplement family income. Unfortunately, work replaces education as families struggle to climb out of different levels of poverty. For students seeking to continue their education after the workday ends, Educatodos provides classes in the evenings and weekends. This program allows students to continue their education in spite of difficult circumstances at home. Educatodos has requested a Peace Corps Volunteer to help them develop and supervise an English language program for 7th, 8th, and 9th grade students.

3.Youth Center – I know little about the Youth Center counterpart. From what I understand at this point, I will be working in conjunction with a local youth organization to train youth leaders in various community projects. I am still waiting to hear more about this project.

I am excited to begin my work as an official Volunteer. As I learn more about my whereabouts and projects I will update everyone via email. Also, I wanted to thank all of you for keeping in touch. I love hearing about life in the United States and miss being able to communicate with ease. I am hoping that my permanent site will have Internet access. At times I run out of minutes before being able to respond to everyone individually.

All the Best,
Dan

Requesting Music!!

It’s Friday, August 24, 2007 at 8:00pm. Rain is pouring outside my bedroom window. As bolts of lightening strike the town of Cantarannas household lights flicker in fear. My little town will soon disappear into the darkness of the valley. I will be left writing under candlelight, squinting to make out the words in front of me. Power in Cantarranas never lasts throughout the duration of an entire storm. Tonight the lightening is especially strong. The sky dances with flashes of white light, clouds quickly emerge out of darkness, and the moon tries desperately to push itself through streaks of pouring rain. Four Geckos straddle the white wall outside my window, doing their best to avoid the soaking Earth. Just now, a neighborhood dog pushed his dirty little nose through the crack of my bedroom door. Everyone seems to be seeking shelter while the lights continue to shine in Cantarranas.

After many hours of piecing together phrases of broken Spanish, listening to long lectures in the afternoon heat, and walking the dusty streets of Honduras, I stumble home to my little house in Colonial Laurales. Evening fatigue has led to a nasty little habit of coffee consumption. However, two cups of hot Honduran coffee each evening usually allows me to study Spanish until at least 8:30pm. In order to maintain a small amount of sanity I spend most nights hunched over my computer listening to music. Therefore, I have a simple request (I’m begging actually) to ask of you guys.

I NEED MUSIC!!! I miss the music of the States terribly and have every single song on my playlist memorized. Many of you are music gurus and I would love to stay in the loop if possible. I am working on purchasing a guitar and will begin writing music when I have the chance as well. However, until then, I am reliant upon the music I have in my computer. If any of you would like to send me the latest tunes from the States (or a mix of oldies), here’s what you should do (I would be indebted to you forever. Music is the one thing that provides a temporary release from periodic moments madness.)

First, make the cd. Second, send it to my mother’s house in the States. Here’s the address:

Dan Akenhead
1236 Setter Drive
Albuquerque, NM 87112

Third, expect a huge kiss from me upon my return to the United States (or a hug if you’re opposed to kissing me). I hope everyone is well. I love and miss all of you!!!

Dan

August 25, 2007

On Monday (August 27, 2007) I’ll begin my seventh week as a Peace Corps Trainee in Honduras. Time passes slowly throughout each training day. The seconds are beginning to seem like minutes; minutes like hours; and hours like days. Each afternoon the Honduran sun strikes our training site with a vengeance. Trainees are left baking in the afternoon heat. We try desperately to remain attentive each afternoon. However, listening to long lectures beneath the blazing heat remains difficult. We are anxious to complete training, determine our final site placement, and begin work as official Peace Corps Volunteers.

On August 11, 2007 the Youth Development group relocated from Santa Lucia to the town of Cantarranas, Francisco Morazan for Field Based Training. FBT lasts six weeks and allows trainees to gain practical work experience before volunteer life begins. Cantarranas is much different when compared to our training site in Santa Lucia. For example, Santa Lucia housed Internet, coffee cafes, restaurants, a mild climate, easy access to Tegucigalpa, and a patient group of locals willing to listen to broken Spanish. Cantarranas, on the other hand, does not provide easy access to Internet (at least an hour away by bus), lacks social settings for enjoying the afternoon cup of coffee, blisters with sweltering heat, and is home to a deadly strain of Dengue Fever. In addition, locals appear confused at the sight of Gringos walking through cobblestone streets attempting to speak broken Spanish… After a few days in Cantarranas I am beginning to understand that life in this community resembles what life is like in many places throughout rural Honduras: time moves slowly, resources remain scarce, and the afternoon sun bakes the Honduran earth.

Living within different communities in Honduras continues to enrich my perspective regarding the differences that exist between life in Central America and life in the United States. I’ve done my best to view each difference with respect, empathy, and understanding. However, at times it is difficult adjusting to certain facets of life here. In many ways, my personal ideologies have been constructed over the last 25 years according to norms existing within the United States. As a result, emerging contrasts between life in Honduras and life the United States arise daily. These contrasts provide deeper insight into Honduran culture, society, and way of life. At the same time, however, insights into the Honduran way of life have led to a deeper appreciation for certain aspects of life in the United States as well. Perhaps the most distinct differences between the United States and Honduras revolve around the concepts of time and progress. Many of my personal struggles thus far center upon these two issues. More on this later…

I’ve had little time to write throughout the last two weeks. As mentioned above, Internet services do not exist in my town. If I’m lucky I’m able to escape during the weekends in order to find a nearby Internet café. In addition, I spend most evenings hunched over Spanish grammar texts, dictionaries, and verb books. Before closing I’d like to post my contact information. Don’t hesitate to give me a call or shoot me an email at any time. I’ll do my best to respond as quickly as possible. I hope all is well in the United States and look forward to hearing from you.

All the Best,
Dan

Phone Number – (504) 9765-4638
danakenhead@yahoo.com