
Regaining Independence
On September 28, 2007 I left the town of Santa Lucia and began the long journey to my permanent worksite: Gracias, Lempira. The trip lasts a total of eight hours and spans nearly half of Honduras. The latter half of the journey is the most interesting portion; there are few paved roads and busses do not leave regularly from my third connection stop: San Juan. Therefore, after twisting and turning through steep mountains for nearly four hours, I am left on the dusty streets of San Juan without direct connection to Gracias. On this particular occasion I was fortunate to meet a Swedish couple on the bus from La Esperanza. They were heading to Gracias to explore Mt. Celaque – the largest mountain in Honduras. After being left in the town of San Juan we devised a plan to enter Gracias together. We decided to wait at the dusty intersection, flag down the next passing vehicle, and request a ride (jalon) into town. To our delight, after fifteen minutes of waiting, an old pick-up truck stopped to offer a ride. We loaded our luggage into the back of the truck, hopped in, and enjoyed a bumpy ride into the town of Gracias.
After three months of training I had nearly forgotten about my preference for traveling alone. My mind was unable to focus on anything other than Spanish, the occasional charla (lecture), and routine daily tasks required by the training team. After training I’ve finally been able to relocate - and enjoy - several important interests: traveling, meeting new people, and remaining open to spontaneous daily events. The adventurous entrance into Gracias revived my desire to live abroad, experience new places, build relationships, and remain open to the spontaneity that life often offers. For example, I had no idea that I would soon become the newest member of Gracias’ championship club soccer team.
Apparently I Play Soccer
I woke up early on Sunday, November 30, 2007 with the intention of studying Spanish. Each morning I read the local newspaper (La Prensa), highlight new vocabulary, and create flashcards to help memorize unfamiliar words. Throughout the afternoon I do my best to incorporate new vocabulary into conversation. On this particular morning I had planned on studying before exploring the town of Gracias. As I slowly made my way through the newspaper my host brother interrupted to ask whether or not I would be interested in playing soccer with his friends. Assuming the game would be nothing more than a pick-up soccer game, I agreed and entered my room to change clothes. We left the house together and jumped into the back of a Dodge pick-up truck. While speeding towards the base of Mt. Celaque I remember thinking that it would’ve been wise to eat breakfast before playing soccer. I was hungry and didn’t know when I would have an opportunity to eat. In addition, I wondered if I should’ve tucked away a few Lempiras (dollars) to buy a small snack before the game. I had assumed the game would be informal and short. I told myself not to worry; I should utilize this opportunity to practice speaking Spanish and meet local Hondurans.
The drive to the soccer field was beautiful, dangerous, and educational at the same time. I had never known it was possible to fit fifteen people into the back of a pick-up truck. Every five minutes the truck would pull to the side of the dirt road, gladly welcome additional passengers into the paila (bed of the truck), and continue onward at a mind-boggling speed. Each additional passenger seemed equally curious as to why the tall gringo sat white-knuckled and scared as we climbed the Honduran hills. I did my best to explain in broken Spanish that I wasn’t used to riding in the back of a truck (or, that I wasn’t used to gripping the side of a truck in order to prevent being thrown to my death – my Spanish isn’t quite there yet). By the time we arrived to the field I was hungry and fatigued. Yet, I had a great opportunity to meet other locals, prove my athleticism on the soccer field, gain respect among locals, and integrate into the community. I did my best to appear confident and ready for the assumed informal pick-up game.
When the opposing team arrived I noticed each player was wearing a bright orange soccer jersey. I remember being slightly puzzled; surely I wouldn’t be invited to play in an official soccer game. I inquired about the jerseys and learned that my team also had official uniforms. My host brother promptly handed me shorts and a white top. “Vamos,” he said, and then dashed towards the center of the field. Not knowing what else to do, I changed clothes and did my best to appear ready for the upcoming game. The official referee arrived as I stretched the tight white jersey over my torso. I began to worry.
At this point I tried to convince myself that I was fully capable of playing a full soccer game: “Okay Dan, you’re not that hungry. Who needs breakfast anyway? Soccer games aren’t that long. You’re athletic – you can do it. Just go for it!” As I talked myself into a completely impossible situation I noticed that the team I had just joined began to warm up – officially, in unison, just like every baseball team I had ever played on. I joined the group, participated in the warm-up exercises, and stretched to prepare for the game. After stretching the team captain informed me that I would be playing offense on the right side of the field. Apparently he believed that my height would benefit the team. His idea was to cross the ball into the center of the field where I would be waiting to head the ball into the net. Little did he know I had absolutely no intention of attempting headers, placing myself in the center of the action, or risk going down with another athletic injury (three surgeries is enough for a lifetime). However, I nodded my head in agreement and jogged to my position.
The game started. I dashed from side to side doing my best to pretend like a soccer player. At the beginning of the game my team members willingly passed me the ball. I used my speed to create openings towards the net, where I would then receive a quick pass from one of the wings. At first, I felt comfortable charging the goal and making attempts at scoring. This mindset quickly changed after being fully attacked by the opposing team. After taking a quick beating and losing control of the ball, I decided it would be a better idea to be less aggressive. For the remainder of the first half I passed the ball away from the net immediately after receiving a pass… I was replaced after the first half of the soccer game. Apparently my teammates didn’t like my less aggressive approach.
I enjoyed the second half of the game much more than the first. Campesinos from nearby Aldeas (small villages) had gathered around the sidelines to watch the game. They brought with them freshly picked oranges, pineapple, tortillas, and juice to sell during halftime. I hobbled to the sidelines, peeled a ripe Honduran orange, and practiced Spanish with locals while watching the remainder of the game. In fact, this experience proved to be far more rewarding than the actual soccer game itself. We discussed the differences between Honduras and the United States. They asked questions about my experiences in Honduras. And, of coarse, they politely asked me to teach them phrases in English. When the game ended I climbed back into the paila of the Dodge pick-up, waved goodbye to our fans, and braced myself for the bumpy ride back to Gracias.
On the way back to Gracias I learned that my team won 4 – 0. I didn’t make many contributions within the game itself. However, I’ve been invited to play in an upcoming game this Sunday (October 14, 2007). I’m going to wake up earlier and make sure to eat breakfast. I have a feeling I’ll make a better teammate with a full stomach.